Swinging between two extremes, the Indian jewel shopper is either being prudent or seeking the extraordinary, says the founder of Dagmar Jewelry, Pavan Anand.

Emerald and Diamond – Vintage Cocktail Hollywood Earrings

 

In a country besotted by precious stones, maverick couturier Pavan Anand, the founding CEO of Dagmar Jewellery, accomplished the impossible, pioneering a niche for semi-precious couture jewellery in India, way back in 2004. In lesser than a decade since he set up shop, Hollywood began knocking on his door, and slowly, Indians too showed keen interest, bucking the long-held belief that only precious metal and stones define luxury. Dagmar also has a line of precious diamond-encrusted jewels which again find takers both in the west and the east. However, the Narendra Modi government’s controversial demonetization of high-value notes has created an instability in the market. Anand weighs in on the impact of demonetization on the luxury jewel trade, and, on a lighter note, tells us the sort of bling that will trend in 2017.

Several Hollywood celebrities swear by your work. Can you name some of them?

We’ve attracted an international celebrity clientele from our early days, Hollywood and otherwise – stars like Nicole Kidman, Goldie Hawn, Edward Norton, Annalyn Mccord and  Chantal Kreviazuk, to name a few, have worn our jewels.

The Black Band – Pavan Anand 5 carat Diamond Signature design

 

Why did you name your brand Dagmar?

I initially played with the idea of simply calling the brand ‘Pavan Anand’ but something about it felt a bit vain. I was very clear I wanted this to become an international label so I began to look for names that had an international ring to them. I came across this one afternoon, loved the way it looks and sounds, and decided to go with Dagmar – which in German means ‘glorious day.’ Something about it felt and sounded very powerful. That drew me in.

 

Emerald and Diamond Ensemble

Which is that one woman you would like to see wear your creations?

I’d love to get our pieces on international personalities from various spheres. Kate Middleton, Michelle Obama and Hillary Clinton, for instance. As exciting as it is to simply get pieces on stars in the entertainment business, which happens all the time, I would be excited to have powerful globally known names, from different professions and backgrounds, enjoy our line and wear them with élan.

Diamond and Rose Quartz Swirl Art Deco Brunch Earrings

 

What are 2017’s fashion trends?

Demonetisation in India, as well as the slack economic backdrop globally has definitely resulted in a slowing down in sales across the luxury segment. What this means for bespoke brands like ours is that sales are now polarised into two distinct segments – first, an increase in lower-priced but large-looking pieces such as dramatic chandelier earrings, continue to be the top sellers for us. They are affordable in comparison to buying an entire set and yet look as magnificent.

Then second trend that continues to rise despite the discouraging global economic backdrop is the desire for the extraordinaire! Buyers continue to look for the rare and exotic, even now. Many collectors believe that investing in yellow, pink and blue diamonds can actually balance out their financial portfolio returns. Auctions of these rare-coloured diamonds at Sotheby’s and Christie’s auction houses continue to break per carat rates year after year and that trend is likely to continue. Within the Indian subcontinent, most buyers looking to buy coloured diamonds are generally comfortable investing in fancy, vivid, yellow-tones. We’ve done a couple interesting pieces in yellow diamonds recently. Bridal statement necklaces continue to be big sellers. Diamonds, in combination with emerald or rubies and detachable necklaces continue to be very popular.

We continue to focus on rocks. Large diamonds above 1.5 carats continue to be in huge demand and forever sought after. The difference this year seems to be that customers prefer simplicity in the sense that a simple 2 carat brilliant-cut diamond sitting high up over a bed of smaller diamonds, seems more appropriate for this modest age.

 

The Detachable Italian Diamond and Ruby Suite by Pavan

 

Indian jewellery happens to be some of the best in the world. In a hugely competitive market, what is the USP of Dagmar Jewellery?

Indian and Italian jewels are my personal preferences. I think right from day one we had a very clear market distinction. Right from my product design, its packaging, our distribution channel, the subtle branding and above all the immaculate finish and styling, we always stood out.

In the years our launch, I think several other brands and self proclaimed ‘designers’ stepped into the market to cash in on the ‘semi-precious jewels’ boom that Dagmar had initiated. I`d like to believe we have always stayed a step ahead and hopefully will continue to do so.

 

Emerald and Diamond Cocktail Ring

Is there a particular line of jewellery apart from your own that you admire?

De Grisogono from Geneva would be one of my favorite jewelry labels! I enjoy their work because they are able to create truly novel and risqué designs which are still very saleable, despite being avant-garde.

Dagmar Jewellery has a worldwide presence. Mention some of your international offices.

Our primary operations are based in Toronto, New York, Miami, Atlanta, Singapore, Jakarta, Lagos and Kuwait. The world is an open market and full of opportunities. For us it is always about finding a suitable local sole brand representative and we try and set operations up.

Globally the way jewellery is viewed is changing. Falling gold prices coupled with the entry of ‘artificially created or lab manufactured diamonds’ in the market – the ‘trust’ and ‘investment’ factor with fine jewels has been diminishing. This has dramatically increased the demand for trustworthy brands like Dagmar.

Which professional memory do you cherish?

Apart from the usual Hollywood associations, in 2012, we also exhibited in Jakarta, in association with Versace. In 2013, our Casablanca hoop earrings were featured in Oprah Magazine. Around the same time we also showcased at the New York and Jakarta Fashion weeks.